แจ็กเก็ตชาแนล สินค้าที่มาจากชุดผู้ชาย กลายเป็นไอเท็มเอกลักษณ์ของแบรนด์

แจ็กเก็ต​ชาแนล

แจ็กเก็ตชาแนล ไอเท็มสุดชิคที่บ่งบอกไลฟ์สไตล์ ของหนุ่มสาวที่รักความทันสมัยและคลาสสิค สำหรับเครื่องแต่งกาย 2022

แจ็กเก็ตชาแนล ที่กลายเป็นสัญลักษณ์ อย่างหนึ่งของแบรนด์ ผลิตภัณฑ์หลาย ๆ ชิ้นของชาแนล นั้นมีจุดกำเนิด แจ็กเก็ตชาแนล และไอเดียมาจากชายคนรัก ซึ่งหนึ่งในผลิตภัณฑ์ ที่ได้ออกแบบขึ้นมา ก็คือ ชุดสูทจากผ้าทวีด ซึ่งเป็นอีกหนึ่งสินค้า ที่ได้รับความนิยมมาก อีกทั้งยังทำให้ ผู้คนทั่วทั้งโลก ได้รู้จักกับผ้าทวีด

ซึ่งหลายคนส่วนใหญ่ อาจจะ ติดปาก เรียกผ้าชนิดนี้กันว่า “ผ้าทวีด CHANEL” กันอย่างแพร่หลาย อีกทั้งยังมีผู้ที่มี ชื่อเสียงระดับโลกมากมาย นำมาสวมใส่ ให้เห็นกันอยู่เรื่อย ๆ ไม่ว่าจะเป็น เคต มิดเดิลตัน ดัชเชสแห่งเคมบริดจ์, เจนนี่BLACKPINK, จี-ดรากอน นักร้องวง BIGBANG

แจ็กเก็ตชาแนล

หลายคนน่าจะสงสัยว่า ผ้าทวีด ไลฟ์สไตล์ไอเทม ทำไมถึงเป็นหนึ่ง ในสินค้าที่เป็น เหมือนสัญลักษณ์ของ แบรนด์ชาแนลได้ยังไง ?

วันนี้จะมาเล่าเรื่องราวของ โกโก ชาแนล คือหนึ่งดีไซเนอร์ที่มีชื่อเสียง มาจากผลงานของเธอ โดยการเข้ามาปฏิวัติ วงการแฟชั่นในอดีต หลายคนน่าจะเคยเห็น ภาพถ่าย สไตล์การแต่งตัว

รวมไปถึงผลงาน การออกแบบของเธอ อาจจะไม่ทราบว่า แท้ที่จริงแล้ว เธอนั้นเกิดอยู่ในระหว่าง ยุคที่ผู้หญิงส่วนใหญ่ นั้นนิยมแต่งตัว ที่ต้องใส่คอร์เซต บีบตรงบริเวณเอวให้เล็ก และใส่กระโปรงสุ่มบาน ๆ บริเวณช่วงบน จะเผยให้เห็นเนินหน้าอก ไปถึงคอ คล้ายกับยุควิกตอเรีย

ด้วยเหตุนี้เอง โกโก ชาแนล มองเห็นต่างออกไป ซึ่งเธอมองว่า การแต่งกายเช่นนั้น เปรียบเสมือนกล่อง ที่ครอบคลุมสรีระ ของหญิงสาวเอาไว้ ซึ่งสิ่งพวกนี้มันอาจจะไม่ได้ เหมาะกับรูปร่าง ของผู้หญิงทุกคน สิ่งนี้จึงกลายเป็น สาเหตุของการปฏิวัติความนิยม รวมถึงแฟชั่นของผู้หญิง

โดยสินค้าที่เกิดเป็น กระแสในยุคนั้น ก็คือ ชุดที่เป็นเอกลักษณ์ ที่เรียกกันว่า “สูทผ้าทวีด” แจ็กเก็ตชาแนล ได้เปิดตัวขึ้นในทศวรรษ 1918ซึ่งในตอนนั้น โกโก ชาแนล กำลังคบหาดูใจอยู่กับ ดยุกแห่งเวสต์มินสเตอร์ ของประเทศอังกฤษ

ขณะที่มีโอกาสเดินทางไปท่องเที่ยวที่ สกอตแลนด์ด้วยกัน และกลายเป็นสถานที่ ที่ทำให้เธอได้เจอกับ “ผ้าทวีด” ซึ่งเป็นผ้าประจำ ท้องถิ่นของสกอตแลนด์ ความจริงคำว่า ทวีด หรือ Tweed นั้นมาจาก “Twill” นั้นแปลว่า “ผ้าทอลายทแยง” โดยส่วนมาก มีการผลิตขึ้นที่ โรงงานในสกอตแลนด์

ซึ่งผ้าชนิดนี้มาจาก การนำเอาเส้นใย ที่ได้จากขนสัตว์ แล้วทอด้วยมือ ให้เป็นแนวทแยง จะทำให้ผ้ามีความหนา จึงนิยมเอามาใส่ เป็นเสื้อผ้าชั้นนอก โดยในยุคนั้น คนส่วนใหญ่จะนิยม นำผ้าทวีดมาทำเป็น เครื่องแต่งกาย เสื้อชาแนล ผู้ชาย หรือ เสื้อคลุม ชา แน ล ผู้ชาย ของ เหล่าผู้ชายมากกว่า

แต่ด้วยความที่โกโก ชาแนล มักจะชอบเอาชุดของผู้ชาย หรือคนรักมาใส่ อยู่เป็นประจำ เสื้อกันหนาว chanel ของแท้ ซึ่งตอนที่ไปสกอตแลนด์ เธอก็ได้เอาชุด ที่ทำจากผ้าทวีดของคนรัก ของเธอเองมาสวมใส่ เธอรู้สึกชื่นชอบในผ้าทวีด ที่สวมใส่สบาย อีกทั้งความน่าค้นหา ที่เป็นสัญลักษณ์ของเนื้อผ้า

ยิ่งไปกว่านั้นก็คือ เธอยังพบว่า เสื้อแจ็กเก็ตผ้าทวีด เสื้อแขนยาวชาแนลแท้ แจ็กเก็ตชาแนล สำหรับผู้ชาย แค่ตัวเดียว นั้นสามารถสวมใส่ ได้เกือบจะทุกโอกาส ทั้งการล่าสัตว์, เล่นกีฬา และโปโล เรื่องราวที่ได้กล่าวมานี้

แจ็กเก็ตชาแนล

จึงกลายเป็นจุดเริ่มต้น ของการออกแบบ “ชุดสูท” เสื้อชาแนลของแท้ สำหรับผู้หญิงได้สวมใส่ อย่างสบาย อีกทั้งยังให้ สามารถเคลื่อนไหว ร่างกายได้อย่างดี เช่นเดียวกับ แจ็กเก็ตชาแนล ชุดของพวกผู้ชาย แต่ก็ยังคงรักษา เอกลักษณ์ของผู้หญิง

ดูเหมือนทุกสิ่ง จะไปไหนทิศทางที่ดี แต่แล้วในเวลาต่อมา เส้นทางของเธอก็ต้องติดขัด เนื่องจากยามที่บ้านเมือง เข้าสู่สงครามโลกครั้งที่ 2 ส่งผลให้เธอต้องปิด ร้านเสื้อผ้าทั้งหมด และเปิดไว้แค่ 1 แห่งเท่านั้น และในปี ค.ศ. 1948 หลังสงครามโลกครั้งที่ 2 ได้จบลง

ร้านเสื้อผ้าของเธอ ก็เปิดขึ้นอีกครั้ง ซึ่งช่วงเวลานี่เอง ทำให้แจ็กเก็ตผ้าทวีดเข้ามาอิทธิพล ในวงการแฟชั่นมากขึ้น ซึ่งเธอเองเป็นผู้ออกแบบ และตัดเย็บชุดสูท ที่เกิดจากไอเดีย ของเธออีกครั้ง

และได้เกิดเป็นสิ่งที่ แสดงถึงสถานะของชนชั้นสูงกับ เสื้อคลุม chanel แท้ ในประเทศอังกฤษ รวมถึงกลุ่มคนที่มีชื่อเสียง ที่มีการนำมา สวมใส่ในยุคสมัยนั้น ไม่ว่าจะเป็น เจ้าหญิงไดอานา เจ้าหญิงแห่งเวลส์, แจ็กกี เคนเนดี ภรรยาของอดีต ประธานาธิบดี จอห์น เอฟ. เคนเนดี ของประเทศสหรัฐอเมริกา

ไม่เพียงเท่านั้น ในเวลาต่อมาเธอ มีแนวความคิด ที่จะพัฒนาตัวเนื้อผ้า ให้ดูสวยงามยิ่งขึ้น นั่นก็คือการทอร่วมกัน ของผ้าทวีด ผ้าไหม และขนสัตว์ สิ่งพวกนี้จะทำให้ เสื้อผ้ามีน้ำหนักเบาขึ้น อีกทั้งยังทำให้ เนื้อผ้าดูมีความเงา ยิ่งขึ้นอีกด้วย

แจ็กเก็ตชาแนล โดย ณ ขณะนี้ แบรนด์ชาแนล มีผ้าทวีดที่เป็น เอกลักษณ์เฉพาะ ภายใต้แบรนด์ทั้งหมด 3 ชนิด ก็คือ

แจ็กเก็ตชาแนล

1. Fantasy Tweed เป็นผ้าทวีดที่มี สีสันมากมาย มีวิธีการทอที่ไม่ซับซ้อน เนื้อผ้าจะไม่ค่อยนูน หรือมีมิติมากนัก
2. Lesage Tweed เป็นผ้าทวีด ที่ดูหรูหราและวิบวับ เนื่องจากเนื้อผ้า มีการใช้ขนสัตว์ และเปลือกหอยทอร่วมกัน ได้อย่างลงตัว
3. Plain Tweed เป็นผ้าทวีดสีเดียว ที่เป็นแบบแรกเริ่ม อีกทั้งยังคือผ้าทวีด ที่ได้รับความนิยมมากที่สุด

ซึ่งปัจจุบันนี้ ไลฟ์ สไตล์ ของคนไทย กับแจ็กเก็ตผ้าทวีด เสื้อคลุมผ้าทวีต ชาแนล จากแบรนด์ชาแนล ถือว่ายังเป็นเอกลักษณ์ ของวงการแฟชั่น ที่หลายครั้งนั้นถูก หยิบยกขึ้นมา พัฒนาเป็นเสื้อผ้าแบบใหม่ อยู่เรื่อย ๆ อย่างล่าสุดที่มี แจ็กเก็ตชาแนล แบบเสื้อผ้าในฤดูใบไม้ผลิ – ฤดูร้อน ปี ค.ศ. 2021 ซึ่งมีการเอาแจ็กเก็ตผ้าทวีด สร้างขึ้นมาใหม่ ให้ดูทันสมัยยิ่งขึ้น

แต่ก็ไม่ได้ทิ้ง เอกลักษณ์ที่เคยมี รวมถึงความคลาสสิก ที่เป็นแบบฉบับของ แบรนด์ชาแนล ให้เห็นอีกเช่นเคย จากเรื่องราวทั้งหมดนี้ ทุกคนน่าจะ ได้เห็นกันแล้วว่า แฟชั่นที่ดีที่สุด

ไม่ใช่แค่จะทำให้ผู้คน จดจำได้ทันที แต่ต้องไม่ลืมที่จะรักษา ระหว่างความทันสมัย และเอกลักษณ์ที่มีอยู่ ในแบบดั้งเดิมของผลิตภัณฑ์ นั้นไว้ให้ได้กลมกลืน อยู่ในเวลาเดียวกัน

โดยแบรนด์ชาแนล ก็ได้ทำให้ทุกคนทั่วโลก รับรู้แล้วว่า ถึงแม้โกโก ชาแนล จะไม่ได้อยู่ บนโลกใบนี้แล้ว แต่สิ่งที่เธอได้สร้างเอาไว้ ยังคงได้รับการสานต่อ อีกทั้งยังคง ได้รับความนิยม จากผู้คนทั่วโลก มาจนถึงทุกวันนี้ @UFA-X10 

 

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